Encompassing vast expanses of semi-arid steppe in the heart of Central Asia, the Republic of Kazakhstan is one of the largest of the former Soviet republics, second only to Russia in area.
Rich with mineral resources, Kazakhstan's huge "empty" spaces were mismanaged by the Soviets: Semipalatinsk was the site of more than 500 above- and below-ground nuclear tests. Poor irrigation techniques reduced the Aral Sea to a quarter of its original volume. Land was used for a crash-farming program in the 1950s, much of it overworked and rendered infertile in just a few years.
The empty steppe of Kazakhstan was populated by exiled nationalities from all corners of the Soviet Union. Not known for its tourist attractions, Kazakhstan remains of huge importance for business travelers: Recent discoveries of colossal oil reserves in the Caspian Sea basin promise wealth for the country if it can eliminate the stifling corruption that began during the Soviet regime.
Kazakhstan's weather and climate are brutally continental, with harsh, cold winters and relentlessly hot, dry and dusty summers. The brief periods of moderate temperatures, usually late April-early May and late September-early October, are the best times to visit. Kazakhstan has occasional - sometimes destructive - earthquakes in the southeast. Dust storms abound in the steppe.
Kazakhs and Russians are the two main ethnic groups in Kazakhstan. Most people in the cities speak Russian, though the number of ethnic Russians has slipped to about 30 percent of the country's 15 million inhabitants. Kazakh is the official and most widely understood language. Russian is widely understood, but for the most part is spoken only in cities. English is spoken mostly by those who deal regularly with tourists. Most ethnic Kazakhs are adherents of Islam, though not always avid in their observance. And most ethnic Russians are Russian Orthodox.
Kazakhstan moved its capital from the cosmopolitan Almaty to Astana (formerly Akmola) in 1998, but Almaty continues to be the commercial heart of the country and remains the port of entry into Kazakhstan. There are 18 carriers offering flights to Kazakhstan including Air Astana, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Lufthansa, Georgian National Airlines and Aeroflot.
Due to the vast size of the country, air travel is the best way to get around and there are regular links between all major cities. Kazakhstan has a decent rail network, but it is slow, dirty and not always secure.
Kazakhstani roads, especially in the countryside, are in poor repair and may be crowded with livestock. Traffic flows on the right, but drivers regularly flout this and other rules.
The telecommunications infrastructure in the countryside is old and unreliable, but is improving in Almaty, Astana and other large cities. There are increasing numbers of card phones and mobile phones. Automatic teller machines can be found in most large cities, but credit cards are only accepted at the most upscale establishments and banks.
Westerners visiting Kazakhstan are objects of attention. The country is nominally secure, but petty crimes, such as pickpocketing, are directed specifically at travelers. Most crimes occur near hotels and restaurants and in and around shopping areas and bazaars.
Prices for most travel goods and services have largely been deregulated, especially in Astana and Almaty, so expect prices similar to those in the West. However, significant bargains can be had for those willing to stray from the beaten track.
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