Yemen's recorded history dates back thousands of years. Caravans of camels traced ancient trade routes through the country, carrying incense, spices and other goods to India, Africa and the Middle East. The fragrant tree resins frankincense and myrrh, both native to the area, were sold to the ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians. Modern-day Yemen has retained much of its ancient charm and beauty. The centuries-old architecture, tradecrafts and culture have endured the test of time.
Until 1990, the Republic of Yemen was divided between traditionalist North Yemen (Northern Yemen Republic), with Sana'a as its capital, and communist South Yemen (Democratic Republic of Yemen), governed from Aden. A short-lived civil war erupted in 1994; however, northern forces captured the port city of Aden in six weeks, ending the fighting. Modernization has been slow. Economic woes and the government's struggle to maintain control over rural, outlaw tribal regions remain the central challenges for Yemen.
Situated on the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula, Yemen shares a border with Saudi Arabia to the north and Oman to the east. The Gulf of Aden and the Arab Sea form Yemen's southern coastline, and the country is bounded on the west by the Red Sea. The strategic strait of Bab al-Mandab on the Red Sea is all that separates Yemen from Djibouti and Eritrea on Africa's eastern shore.
The geography, climate and weather vary by region, ranging from the dry and dusty coastal plain to cooler and wetter high mountains and fertile plateau in the interior. Humidity plagues the southern coastal region where summer temperatures average 40 C (104 F). Temperatures in Sana'a are more moderate, with summer daytime temperatures averaging 25-30 C (77-86 F) with chilly nights; winter temperatures drop below freezing. The western mountains receive most of the rain between July and August. The desert receives no rain, with vast, seemingly endless sands and blistering temperatures, especially in the infamous Empty Quarter (ar-Ruba' al-Khali).
Arabic is the official language in Yemen. English is the next most-widely used language, especially in cities. Islam is the country's official religion, divided primarily between Sunnis, concentrated in the north, and Shia'. Yemen also has a small Jewish minority.
Yemen's main international airport is Sana'a International (SAH), located eight miles north of the city. For security purposes, plan travel to arrive and depart during daylight hours, and make arrangements to be met at the airport. For general travel, the best option is to hire a car and driver, preferably one who speaks English. Buses also operate throughout the country, but are not recommended due to security concerns.
Postal service is most reliable from Sana'a and Aden. Outside of main cities, addresses should be printed in Arabic to ensure proper delivery. The most reliable way to receive mail is via post restante in Sana'a or at large international hotels.
Phone service in urban areas is usually reliable. Look for an "International Telephone Centre" office. Hotel telephone surcharges are high. Wireless phone service is continuing to develop. Two local companies offer 900 MHz GSM coverage in Yemen. Sabafon has the most extensive coverage, including Sana'a and Aden; Spacetel primarily serves Sana'a. Internet access is limited, but is available at a few Internet cafes in Sana'a.
As with most conservative Islamic countries, women should dress modestly. Loose-fitting clothing with long sleeves and near-ankle-length attire is best. A head covering of some sort - such as a scarf - will help women avoid unwanted attention. Women should travel with a group or with a known male escort. Men should wear long pants. Lunch is the main meal of the day, usually eaten with the right hand and a piece of bread (flatware is optional). Tea (Shai) is the main drink; alcohol is taboo.
Security outside of major cities, especially in the tribal areas north and east of Sana'a, is a concern. Foreigners are frequently targeted for kidnapping, usually by rural tribes. Historically, most victims are eventually released unharmed. Carjackings in urban areas are also on the rise. Do not travel after dark, and keep windows up and doors locked. If rural intercity travel cannot be avoided, hire an armed escort or travel in groups, always during the day.
Terrorism is a major concern throughout the region, as demonstrated by the October 2000 attack against the USS Cole in Aden harbor, and the 2002 attack on the French oil tanker Limburg off the coast of Yemen. Al-Qaeda has strong ties to in the area; Osama bin Laden's family is originally from Yemen. The U.S. Department of State urges U.S. citizens to carefully consider the risks of traveling to Yemen. The ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the U.S. presence in Iraq and other unpopular geopolitical decisions have given rise to increased anti-Western sentiment in Yemen. Numerous demonstrations have taken place near the U.S. Embassy in Sana'a.
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